The Spirit of Tokyo: Exploring Old School Monzen-Nakacho

Summary Description

From hidden izakayas to generations-old food shops and historic temples with taiko drum and fire ceremonies, Monzen-Nakacho has everything you could dream of in a Tokyo neighborhood – and more. On this afternoon into evening tour, we’ll explore this magical slice of old-school Tokyo, where the city’s ancient spirit and modern-day creativity live deliciously side-by-side.

Highlights
  • Visits a residential neighborhood
  • Witness a Live Fire Ceremony at Fukagawa Fudo-do Temple
  • Taste Tokyo’s Soul Food at a Shrine Eatery
  • Sake and Umeshu Tasting in Authentic Local Spots
Description

Step into one of Tokyo’s most unique neighborhoods on this immersive six-hour tour through Monzen-Nakacho. Nestled in the city’s historic shitamachi district, this area blends centuries-old tradition with vibrant local life. Begin at Tomioka Hachiman Shrine—birthplace of Edo-era sumo—where you’ll enjoy a clam rice specialty, then explore bustling old shopping streets and sample artisanal pickles, sweets, and more. At Fukagawa Fudo-do Temple, witness a powerful fire ceremony before delving into the local izakaya scene. Taste your way through hidden bars, enjoy expertly crafted dishes, and sip sake at a cozy kaku-uchi. Highlights include umeshu tastings and a final stop at a neo-izakaya known for its inventive tuna creations. Along the way, meet local artisans and gain a deeper understanding of Tokyo’s culinary heritage, spirituality, and hospitality—all in one unforgettable neighborhood.

Tucked away on the eastern side of Tokyo, Monzen-Nakacho is a neighborhood unlike any other in the capital. Here, in the heart of the city’s historic shitamachi, the rhythms of daily life echo with tradition, spirituality, and the aromas of time-honored cooking. On this immersive six-hour experience, you'll explore not just the flavors but also the soul of a place where Tokyo’s past and present coexist gracefully. We begin our journey inside the serene grounds of Tomioka Hachiman Shrine, a landmark steeped in Edo-period history and the birthplace of professional sumo. Among the shrine’s stone lanterns and towering torii gates, we’ll enjoy a beloved local dish: asari gohan, or clams over rice, prepared with care by a humble eatery tucked within the complex. From there, we’ll stroll down a nostalgic shopping street dating back to the early 20th century, popping into family-run shops that have stood the test of time. Whether it’s hand-crafted pickles, traditional sweets made the old-fashioned way, or everyday goods rarely found in modern chain stores, each stop tells a story of craft, continuity, and care.

 The pace of the day will then shift from flavor to flame as we make our way to the striking Fukagawa Fudo-do Temple, where one of the daily goma fire rituals offers a multisensory encounter with Buddhist practice. Chanting, drumming, and the crackle of fire come together in a centuries-old purification ceremony that remains deeply embedded in the life of the neighborhood. With spirits lifted, we follow the local tradition of heading toward the neighborhood’s intimate bars and eateries as the day transitions into evening. Here, food and drink are more than sustenance—they are social currency, passed from hand to hand in places where the line between stranger and regular quickly fades. We'll visit a small kaku-uchi—a liquor store where locals sip standing up—where the sake flows freely and conversation is easy. Further along, a specialist in umeshu (plum wine) will introduce us to rare and refined versions of this beloved drink.

 The evening culminates at a contemporary izakaya that reimagines Japanese pub fare with a focus on tuna, elevating this humble staple into innovative, mouthwatering creations. Seated shoulder to shoulder with locals, we’ll enjoy an array of small plates paired with drinks, gaining not just a full belly, but a fuller appreciation for the cultural role of food and hospitality in Tokyo life. Throughout this experience, you’ll meet shopkeepers, cooks, brewers, and bartenders—each a custodian of Monzen-Nakacho’s character. Their stories, skills, and quiet dedication offer a rare window into a side of Tokyo that few visitors get to see. This is more than a food tour; it’s a deep dive into the neighborhood spirit that continues to nourish Japan’s capital in every sense of the word.

Included / Excluded
  • Culinary Backstreets Guide
  • All food consumed on the walk
  • All drinks consumed on the walk
  • Transportation to and from the meeting point
Important Information
Know Before You Book
  • Food Tasting - Let us know if you have any allergies
Know Before You Go
  • Wear comfortable shoes
Cancellation

Cancellation Cutoff: 72 hours

Cancellation Notes: 90% refund if given 1 week notice prior to walk. 50% refund if given 72 hours notice or more. Less than 72 hours before the beginning of the activity or no-show: no refund

Options and Pricing

The Spirit of Tokyo: Exploring Old School Monzen-Nakacho RETAIL PRICE
Adult (13 - years) $195.00
Child (6 - 12 years) $97.50
Terms and Conditions

Liability Waiver

By completing the reservation you acknowledge the following:

If you have food allergies, you are ultimately responsible to ensure your own health and safety. If you share information about your allergies, we can provide you with some guidance about the food purveyors on your tour, but we are not responsible for any allergic reactions that you may have. We are not responsible for any damages or losses incurred as result of acts by entities beyond our control, including but not limited to restaurants, shops, market stalls, eateries and food carts. We are not responsible for acts beyond our control, including but not limited to acts of God, act of nature, acts of war, or other unrest caused by state or non-state actors. If you are disruptive, we have the right to ask you to leave the tour without refunding you or providing you with a credit for your tour. You are aware of and responsible for all damages or losses that may arise during the course of the tour resulting from:

Risks associated with food, water or other drinks, including alcoholic beverages; physical accidents during the tour or at any of the locations visited; transportation failures; forces of nature; criminal activity; damage, loss or misplaced property; or accident or illness without means of rapid evacuation or availability of medical supplies or services. You agree that any claims that may arise will first go to arbitration and only if not resolved in that manner shall be heard in court. In both cases, grievances shall be heard in the jurisdiction of Washington, DC. You further agree to be responsible for your own welfare and property and accept any and all risks of delay, unanticipated events, inconvenience, illness, injury, emotional trauma or death. You further acknowledge that participation in Culinary Backstreets tours is based upon execution of this Liability Waiver. By completing the reservation process you release and discharge forever Culinary Backstreets, its employees, owners, affiliates, officers, directors, successors, agents, and assigns, from and against any liability arising from participating in this tour. You further agree that this release shall be legally binding upon you personally, all members of your family, all minors traveling with you, your heirs, successors, assigns, and legal representatives, to the maximum extent of the law.

I am aware that while on or traveling to or from my activity with Culinary Backstreets, I might be exposed to COVID-19 from other people, animals or objects. I assume all risk of any such contacts, including sickness, incapacity or death and agree to hold harmless Culinary Backstreets from any such developments. In addition, I recognize that the World Health Organization, U.S. Department of State as well as the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention may have warnings concerning same and am choosing to travel and assume all risk myself.

Redemption Information

Tickets will be held at the box office

About operator:

We got our start in 2009, reporting from a borderless urban zone we like to think of as the “Culinary Backstreets” because we believed that there were countless stories of a city’s foodways that needed to be told. We wanted to focus on a more traditional side of urban culinary life – the workings of simple family-run restaurants, the masters passing their craft on to an apprentice, the banter of regulars gathered around an open table, the rhythm of a life committed to meatballs and nothing else. We were enthralled by all of the tiny epics we encountered while eating our way through the city and set out to share as many of them as we could. From the start, we vowed to go slow and collect these stories one-by-one, giving equal measure to the culinary side as the human element of the story. This way, we expected a deeper understanding of the city and its daily life to emerge with every bite. For us, it’s never just about the best meatball in town; it’s always about all of the meatballs.


We tell the stories of our subjects – unsung heroes who are sometimes forgotten or taken for granted at home – through weekly restaurant reviews published on CB, culinary walking tours, books, web design and smartphone applications. When we see the need, CB also acts as a fundraiser for causes connected to protecting and promoting traditional culinary culture.

By publishing the stories of our local heroes, visiting them on culinary tours, or directly fundraising for them when they are in need, we attempt to honor their work and their essential role in maintaining the fabric of the city. Our purpose is twofold. Yes, we want to get travelers to some good places to eat. But we also want to make sure that some of these spots and the artisans making food there find a new audience and get the recognition and support they deserve. They are holding back the tide of globalized sameness, which is not easy work – even if it’s done unknowingly. But we believe that every meal counts and, with the help of our audience, they will add up. We are committed to their perseverance and hope that our modest efforts encourage them to keep at it. Our work is also guided by a belief in: Honest Tourism: The places where we eat and craftsmen that we feature on our culinary tours are all selected with this purpose in mind. We’d never accept a free lunch or consider a discount for our tour groups, because that would contradict our central goal, to support them. Nor do our guides receive any commissions from shopkeepers. Honest Journalism: The same principal is applied to the publishing of stories. There are no sponsored posts or even advertising on CB. The writers and photographers are paid fairly for their work on stories that we all believe in.

The cities we are drawn to all have a culinary tradition of untold richness as well as a certain tension, be it political instability, the tug between East and West, the clash between modern and ancient identities, migration, rapid gentrification, bankruptcy, or a post-colonial hangover. Our decision to get started in a city is always the result of a trip filled with many meals where we are given in intimate view of that tension, right there on the table. By getting lost in this warren of independent food purveyors struggling to preserve or adapt tradition in fast-paced urban life, we start to discover the deep complexity and true flavor of the city. At present, you’ll find our regular dispatches from Athens, Barcelona, Istanbul, Lisbon, Los Angeles, Marseille, Mexico City, Naples, Porto, Queens (NY), Shanghai, Tbilisi and Tokyo.

CB’s work was started in 2009 by Ansel Mullins and Yigal Schleifer as a humble food blog called Istanbul Eats. The following year we published a book of our reviews, now in its fifth edition. That year we also launched our first culinary walk in Istanbul, a route we are still using today. In 2012, we realized that what we built in Istanbul was needed in other cities we knew and loved. We started CB that year with Athens, Barcelona, Mexico City and Shanghai as pioneering members of our network. In 2013, we added Rio and also launched our iPhone application in Istanbul. In 2015, Tokyo and Tbilisi came into the fold. That year we published mini-guides to Barcelona and Athens and also launched an iPhone application in those cities. Our Eatinerary service, which provides travelers with tailor-made culinary travel itineraries, was also launched in 2015. In 2016, Lisbon – the latest city to kindle our curiosity – joined the CB network. In 2017 we added Naples and Queens, NY – two places with very compelling stories to tell – to our roster and also published full-size eating guides to Athens and Barcelona. In 2018, Porto joined the list of cities we cover.


Basic Information
  • Duration: 6 hours
  • Trip difficulty: Easy
  • Max Group Size: 7
  • Category: Food & Drink
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